Kari Fish Head at Mamak

This once-hidden BuHi gem is no longer quite so hidden (as you’ll realize trying to snag a table at lunchtime), but its menu of Malaysian street eats has stayed strong. Red snapper head, a regional delicacy, comes swimming in a rich, saffron-colored coconut milk curry packed with dry-fried green beans, eggplant, and okra. Pulling the silky bits of fish flesh out of the whole head is a task, but one that reaps big rewards. For easy access, go with the fillet option: breaded, fried, and sautéed strips of catfish.