Twisted cruller with sweet soy milk at Northern China Eatery

In an age of overwrought doughnuts dueling to outdo each other, Northern China Eatery’s traditional fried-to-order crullers or youtiao, paired with warm house-made soy milk, are the ultimate simple pleasure. The crullers come in pairs, a foot long each, crisp outside and in. Dunk them, or let them briefly bathe in the sweetened soy milk before spooning up the goodness. Ideal for breakfast but served all day. $4.