Black Tonkotsu at Jinya Ramen Bar

Slick and modern national chain it may be, but a bowl of Jinya’s tonkotsu holds a time-honored tradition. House-made noodles are springy. Toppings of earthy wood ear mushrooms, green onion, garlic chips, fried onion, oozy soy-marinated soft-boiled egg and brined and braised tender pork slices add ripples of flavor. But what it’s really about is the broth. The porky potage has an irresistible plushness, while drizzles of black garlic add charred nuttiness. $12.95.